European sunscreens are safer than American (2024) (ms.now)
121 points by qsi 4 hours ago
jamesbelchamber 2 hours ago
> Not at all. In fact, American sunscreens may be less safe.
Are they less safe, or _may_ they be less safe? The distinction is important, and I'm wary of overexcited editors "upgrading" titles for clicks.
(This is a comment on the veracity of the title claim only - I'm British, I have no skin in this game)
layer8 2 hours ago
> I have no skin in this game
You literally have if you use sunscreen. ;)
bethekidyouwant 2 hours ago
He just said he’s British
electronsoup 2 hours ago
ItsYan an hour ago
grey-area an hour ago
Britain conforms with EU regulations on sunscreen, as with almost everything else.
stogot 6 minutes ago
Maybe one day they will join the union
sholladay an hour ago
If sunscreen is supposed to provide specific health benefits, namely to reduce cancer risk, then it is a drug, not a cosmetic. Regulations should ensure it provides the intended effect without undue harm. Cosmetics are given more leeway because they are, in principle, neutral from a medical perspective. Why would you want to treat a cancer related product like that? Saving upfront time and money, at the risk of having to spend a lot more time and money later in healthcare, is not a good reason. If anything, we might head the opposite direction. Some people think we should start regulating dietary supplements as drugs rather than food.
guhidalg an hour ago
FDA does regulate cosmetics components, and FTC regulates what claims they can make. It’s hard to make a binary decision that one thing is a drug and something else isn’t. You can appreciate there is a spectrum of side effects with moisturizer and sunblock on one end, supplements in the middle, and chemotherapy drugs on the other end.
Personally, I think that Americans simply don’t treat skin cancer as seriously as they should, and so the market has not provided more choices.
QGQBGdeZREunxLe 3 hours ago
Didn't the FDA clear new ingredients this week? https://www.nytimes.com/2026/06/09/well/fda-sunscreen-bemotr...
hinata08 3 hours ago
OP's article is from 2024, according to the date on it
lazide 2 hours ago
Does that make them safer?
RC_ITR 3 hours ago
I think a lot of us HN-types are people who like to post riddles like this instead of news about what actually happened.
stymaar 2 hours ago
I've no opinion whatsoever on the topic, but why can't economists refrain from writing opinion pieces in newspaper about topics they have no qualification on?
I'm sure there's enough dermatologists and pharmaceutical engineers to give their informed opinion on such a topic, instead of having economists speaking as everythingologists on every damn subject…
(I know why they do that, the author is merely a polical activist, but I wish editors would just close the door to such pieces).
culi 2 hours ago
Frankly, the field of dermatology is so captured by corporations that my confidence is hardly raised when I see a degree in that field.
Is there a term for regulatory capture but for academia? Like "academic capture"?
culi an hour ago
I'd say dermatology, nutrition/dietetics, and phytopathology are 3 of the worst fields in this regard. I don't think we're fully over the sugar lobby's stranglehold on relevant science and I think the glyphosate lobby's hold is even stronger than that was. How many times are we gonna go through these crises and not reform the way we do and fund science?
dynm 2 hours ago
The FDA did (3 days ago!) finally approve a new ingredient: https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expa...
My personal hot take is that we should all be using zinc (or titanium) oxide sunscreen which AFAICT maxes out both effectiveness and chemical safety. (And is the best for the fish?) Interestingly, these are the only ingredients that the FDA currently deems both safe and effective.
jerlam 2 hours ago
Sunscreens that use zinc/titanium dioxide as active ingredients are often so unpleasant to use that people don't apply enough of them or refuse to use them. The "nicer" sunscreens that use these ingredients often sneak in SPF boosters which are actually derivatives of other chemical sunscreens but are treated differently on the ingredients label, pretty much cheating the system.
SPF boosters: https://labmuffin.com/100-mineral-sunscreens-using-unregulat...
The coral-safe sunscreen claims don't have a lot of evidence behind them:
https://labmuffin.com/is-your-sunscreen-killing-coral-the-sc...
dynm 42 minutes ago
> The "nicer" sunscreens that use these ingredients often sneak in SPF boosters which are actually derivatives of other chemical sunscreens but are treated differently on the ingredients label, pretty much cheating the system.
Interesting, thank you for pointing this out. I had a little trouble understanding what the link was saying at first, but it seems to (correctly) state that many "mineral" sunscreens contain active chemical ingredients like butyloctyl salicylate. (And they're sometimes labeled as non-active ingredients?)
Semaphor 2 hours ago
My wife is black and has sensitive skin. She once tried zinc oxide sunscreen. If one wants to be protected from the sun while cosplaying as purple monster, it's a great choice.
apt-apt-apt-apt 44 minutes ago
I'm light-skin and look like a ghost with Blue Lizard. I can't imagine how ridiculous it must look on dark skin.
horizion2025 an hour ago
Titanium dioxide is now an IARC 2B suspected carcinogen.
tristor an hour ago
This article never actually says which chemicals are being used in these sunscreens that are supposedly better/safer, but basically there are only two groups of effective active ingredients for sunscreen: zinc or titanium oxide (minerals) or benzene/petroleum derivatives. The problem with the latter is they absorb through the skin and are carcinogenic, although the research shows they're better than mineral-based sunscreen at blocking UV across a wider spectrum and therefore the offset in skin cancer rate is more than the cancer risk from absorption. Meanwhile good old zinc oxide has basically no downsides except that it doesn't look pretty and you have to reapply it often if you're swimming or sweating, and if you reapply often enough it's nearly as effective as benzene-based sunscreens.
The "better" EU sunscreens and also those in Korean/Japanese products, in my experience are using benzene derived chemicals. I'll stick to zinc oxide, thanks.
horizion2025 an hour ago
Wrong there are plenty of other ingredients. In fact one of those ingredients that is permitted in EU and not US is ecamsule. It is quite nice, it absorbs the UV photons by switching confirmation (different isomere) rather than being oxidised into ROS/free radicals as many other ingredients do.
tristor an hour ago
Ecamsule is interesting but unfortunately only blocks a very narrow wavelength of UVA, which means it has to be mixed with other chemicals which are usually the benzene derivatives I mention. It's also water-soluble so very difficult to make it waterproof.
Materials science is hard, and it's even harder when it comes to things we put in and on our bodies, which is why we shouldn't sensationalize the benefits of new chemicals without acknowledging their downsides, especially when we have found something that works exceptionally well, is cheap, and is merely cosmetically challenging (zinc oxide).
JumpCrisscross an hour ago
> good old zinc oxide has basically no downsides except that it doesn't look pretty
Tinted sunscreens solve this problem.
horizion2025 an hour ago
Btw titanium dioxide is now a suspected carcinogenic. It is illegal in food in the EU now.
tristor an hour ago
Yes, titanium and aluminum were commonly used in skincare products like sunscreen and deodorant and even in toothpaste (and still are in the US), but should be avoided. That's part of why I use zinc oxide and not titanium oxide. Zinc oxide is not a carcinogen.
retired an hour ago
From what I read in the article, American sunscreen has more stringent regulation because it is qualified as drugs, which has higher standards, thus making American sunscreen safer (but less efficient).
Steltek an hour ago
Yeah, the article is contradiction with itself. US has higher standards, restricting what can be sold but then also states, "In fact, many U.S. sunscreens would fail European standards for UVA protection."
So which is it?
wahnfrieden 3 hours ago
Japanese ones are also much better. I like Anessa Milk, it also doesn't stain as bad as some others.
vrganj 3 hours ago
> A peer-approval system would work both ways. Europe would also take into account FDA decisions
This doesn't seem like a given at all. Just because the FDA accepts EMA approvals wouldn't mean the EMA would accept FDA ones and as a European, I wouldn't want it to.
I have a lot more trust in the EMA than the FDA.
bogeholm 35 minutes ago
3 years ago I was in pharma in Europe. Back then (a political lifetime ago), the FDA had an excellent reputation and was considered a kind of gold standard.
Get your new drug approved by the FDA, and ~50+ countries would follow more or less on autopilot.
This wasn’t necessarily a bad thing, because as far as I know, they really _were_ that good.
bobthepanda 2 hours ago
The FDA’s big claim to fame is not approving thalidomide when European regulators did, preventing a bunch of birth defects https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thalidomide
bayarearefugee an hour ago
The modern FDA's big claim to fame is having the previous head of it forced out, then nearly immediately approving controversial fruit-flavored vape products at the behest of a POTUS who both owns stock in Altria/Philip Morris and receives millions in Super PAC money from the tobacco industry.
Past performance is perhaps not indicative of future results.
vrganj 2 hours ago
This was also an entire lifetime ago.
delusional 2 hours ago
Peer approval schemes are usually implemented as trade efficiency measures. A one sided peer approval would make it easier to import, while not making it easier to export, causing a delta trade deficit.
malfist 2 hours ago
Why is a trade deficit something to worry about? After all, my local grocery store buys nothing from me, but we both benefit from the exchange of goods and currency.
virissimo 2 hours ago
nutjob2 2 hours ago
That how you end up with chlorinated chicken you'd never knowingly eat.
Obviously any authority that takes its job seriously makes decisions based on facts and not blind trust.
vrganj 2 hours ago
This isn't about trade efficiency though, it's about bypassing an inefficient bureaucracy by allowing for approval by a more efficient one as an option.
We have no intention of dropping our standards to US ones, but they are welcome to follow our lead. (Or don't! It's up to you, just don't make it our problem!)
ImPostingOnHN 2 hours ago
That's a problem for the country with insufficient approval schemes to deal with, especially if they're also doing more work out of spite.
For a country which has a sufficient approval scheme, they lose little by choosing not to trusting an insufficient approval scheme.
ChrisArchitect 3 hours ago
(2024)
More recently:
FDA Expands Sunscreen Options for the First Time in 20 Years to Add Bemotrizinol
https://www.fda.gov/news-events/press-announcements/fda-expa...
isoprophlex 3 hours ago
Can't the free market just make this problem go away?
Pragmata 3 hours ago
Seems like the free market does make this problem go away. This is simply one of the (few) instances where there is a freer market in the EU that in the US
>In the European Union, sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, which means greater flexibility in approving active ingredients. In the U.S., sunscreens are regulated as drugs, which means getting new ingredients approved is an expensive and time-consuming process. Because they’re treated as cosmetics, European-made sunscreens can draw on a wider variety of ingredients that protect better and are also less oily, less chalky and last longer.
You should take this as an opportunity to reflect on the amount of lives lost as a result of the regulations in place for drugs, in both the EU and US.
If the negative effect is this obvious in sunscreen, just imagine how much more impactful removing regulation on cancer drugs would be.
hinata08 2 hours ago
calling the EU a free market that makes problems go away to draft macro economic conclusions from sunscreens is a particularly shallow analysis
Free Market advocates already did that move after walking in Hong Kong and other Chinese cities, at times they were more qualified in partisan politics than proficient in Chinese. We had been hearing their absolute "facts" and only alternative theory for a full century afterwards
I guess it's better to quickly correct that Europe isn't a lawless free market and a huge corpus of regulations still exists, even if the specific problem to approve new sunscreens is a different process in here
regulation and economy can be discussed, but EU isn't an example of free market. Sunscreens are still heavily regulated like everything else. FDA and all their processes aren't perfect, but they do a good job overall
Pragmata 2 hours ago
DangitBobby 3 hours ago
The flipside of this is that companies put dangerous chemicals into food, cookware, etc. Not convinced things would be better on net.
ericmay 2 hours ago
Pragmata 2 hours ago
thinkthatover an hour ago
More likely if the FDA was properly funded these things could get reviewed more often and this wouldn't be an issue. Not updating allowed ingredients in over 20 years doesn't point towards a lack of flexibility, its debilitation.
dahinds 35 minutes ago
pseidemann 3 hours ago
You seem to be unaware of the asymmetry of information and competence. This is why consumer protection exists.
culi an hour ago
What specific consumer protections are you referencing?
pseidemann an hour ago
jliptzin 3 hours ago
Existed*
hinata08 3 hours ago
If it's straightforward to approve new cosmetics, REACH, Cosmetic Products Regulation 1223/2009 updated no latter than this year in regulation 2026/78, ISO 22716 and whatnot still apply
You can find lists of ingredients banned in cosmetics in the EU, or across EVERY industry in general
Perfume manufacturers are the only ones who get away with virtually everything as they don't have to declare their ingredients (but "perfumes" are also an ingredient in a bunch of cosmetics, so here is the loophole as Europe always has loopholes)
1shooner 3 hours ago
Consider the potential for economic growth in private testing services. It's called job creation!
anon7000 3 hours ago
Oh yeah, the free market is great at burying problems so consumers remain in the dark.
abc123abc123 3 hours ago
It already has. That is why you are reading this right now.
petre 3 hours ago
It could, but everybody got an orange tan afterwards.
alistairSH 3 hours ago
This has been true for a while. Sadly.